This impressive rock and ice peak dominates the southern end of the Charpati Himal, which separates the valley of the Dhudh Koshi from the upper reaches of the Hinku – Drangka. The northern end of this chain is dominated by the spectacular fangs of Kangtega( 6779m/22241ft) and Thamaserku( 6608m/21680ft). Kusum Kanguru is well hidden until you get out of the valley, although it can be glimpsed from the Namche trail at Ghat, from where the west and south-west faces can be seen up the valley of the Kusum Drangka. A complex, triple summited mountain, Kusung Kanguru, also spelt Kusum Kanguru, has at least five major ridges, and as many faces, of which the north faces of the main summit is the most awesome. The name Kusum Kanguru( or more correctly Kusum Kangri) comes from Tibetan, meaning “ three snow peaks”.
Kusum Kanguru has the reputation for beings the most difficult without doubt increased by the level “ trekking peak” , with all that entails. It can in no way, even by its most moderate route, be compared with the more straight forward climbs on summit such as Island, Mera, or Pisang for instance. The climbing is technically difficult, needing a high degree of commitment and experience. Where as many Nepal’s peaks are ideal for well- led groups with limited experience, this mountain is not.
The North Ridge is approached from Monjo on the trail to Namche Bazaar. From base camp ascend steep grass and screed and finally a ramp leading to the ridge proper.
The approach to the South East Face is from the Hinku valley side. From Lukla the base camp can be reached in 5 days. The ascent route to the main summit is through the South East Face. With a base camp at 4360m, two or three high camps are required to complete the climb.